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For many, the ancient city of Jerusalem conjures tense images; a front-line of the Palestinian-Israeli conflict, where cultures clash and borderlines appear to blur. Indeed, even after a long forty-eight years of Israeli occupation, the city and its residents remain on edge, awaiting the next sectarian stirrings.
Yet beyond the complexities and tragedy of this seemingly insurmountable territorial impasse lies a city of treasure that must not be overlooked; a city characterized by diversity, strength, and a rich heritage of conquest and revival that makes it what it is today. It is for these reasons that Jerusalem welcomes an average of four million tourists annually, drawn by its beauty and intrigue.

History
Jerusalem is considered to be a holy city for the three major monotheistic religions in existence today — Islam, Christianity and Judaism — and has a known history that dates back to the fourth millennium BC. Since this time it has been the site of numerous conquests yet, arguably, it was the declaration of the Israeli state in 1948 atop deep-rooted Palestinian communities that has been the source of the city’s current tensions. Despite efforts made by Israeli occupation forces to erase Palestinian history in the area, the eastern side of the city (the ‘old’ city) still retains an unshakeable Palestinian character, presenting a once-in-a-lifetime experience for every adventurous tourist.

Historic sites and monuments
Jerusalem maintains a staggering 220 ancient sites and monuments that speak of its tumultuous past, and that prove its lasting charm. But there’s no need to be overwhelmed by this astounding number of historical jewels, as the majority are concentrated within the walls of the old city where one can easily find their way with the help of friendly locals.
Take the time to stop and chat with the locals as you sip delicious Sahlab (a thick, sweet, fragrant milky drink, usually topped with nuts and cinnamon) and ask these locals about their love for this evocative city. For many, it takes an extraordinary amount of resilience and determination (‘samoud’ in Arabic) to retain and continually assert their connection with the land of their ancestors.
In order to narrow down your sight-seeing list, some must-see sites include, of course, ‘Haram Al-Sharif’ where it is believed that the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) ascended to heaven. Religious and territorial conflicts aside, the Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa mosque comprise an architectural masterpiece in a class of its own that should not be missed. Admission to the Haram Al-Sharif is free, and visiting hours run from Sunday to Thursday, 7.30 a.m. to 10 a.m., and again from 12.30pm to 1.30pm (except for times where Israeli-imposed closures are in place — check with locals).
Due to the often frenetic pace of life inside the high walls of the old city, it’s a good idea to schedule in some time to orient yourself and get an overarching perspective of the city. To do this, try taking an easy meander along ‘Ramparts Walk’. Unlike the crowded streets down below, the walkway situates you high above the hustle, giving you a bird’s-eye view of the city as you make your way up and along its outer-most stone walls.
Once your feet are firmly back on the ground, make your way to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where the internal architecture and sweet serenity are sure to impress you. If you have some time to spare, allow yourself to linger on a stone bench in one of the holy rooms, where you can take in the full range of smells, sounds and visual masterpieces that surround you.
Afterwards, nurture your newfound sense of relaxation by heading toward the Armenian Quarter and taking a stroll down the Armenian Patriarchate Road. From here you can easily find the St. James Cathedral and St. Mark’s Chapel. Despite receiving fewer visitors than other attractions, these two sites are certainly impressive in their own right, and can offer a break from the crowds that flood into the old city during peak tourist seasons.
Whilst in this quarter, walk through the gates of the Austrian Hospice and follow the stairs inside all the way to the top. Established as a meeting place for pilgrims in the mid-1800s by the Austrian Catholic Church, the building itself offers panoramic views of the old city that are difficult to beat. The best times to appreciate this incredible view are late in the afternoon, or at dawn when the city is only just waking up.
Other noteworthy attractions include the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer for its underground excavations and amazing bell tower view, along with the Pool of Bethesda and the beautiful St-Anne’s Church, whose visual splendor never fail to rejuvenate the weary traveler.

The famous souk
By now you’ll probably be ready for some browsing and gift buying — and there’s no better place to satisfy your inner shopaholic than the famous souk (market place) inside the old city. Here you can find everything from clothing, shoes and gold jewelry, to classic trinkets and souvenirs; not to mention an endless supply of pungent spices, nuts and special treats to enchant your sweet tooth. Be sure to bargain at each store for a good price that works for both the seller and your own budget.

Winding down
After a busy session in the crowded souk, it’s important to get some fresh air into those lungs, meaning it’s the perfect time to make the journey up to the Mount of Olives to enjoy a mesmerizing final view of the old city at the end of a big day. The Mount is the oldest continually used cemetery in the world, yet is anything but doom and gloom. It is home to a collection of holy sites including the Church of the Ascension, which dates back to 1910 and offers perhaps the best view of the wider Jerusalem area. To walk from the old city to the top of the Mount, you will need approximately half an hour, a bottle of drinking water, and some good walking shoes.
As you rest for a while atop the Mount of Olives, allow the falling dusk to settle your senses, as you pause to consider the immense beauty, intriguing history and unclear future of this majestic city.
Top eats to curb your hunger
Once you’ve taken some time to rest up in your hotel room following a full day of sightseeing, be sure to step outside again to enjoy the wide range of restaurants and street-side grills on offer. Among the best places to enjoy authentic Palestinian cuisine is ‘Askadina’, with its varied menu (offering both traditional and international options), great atmosphere, cosy fireplace, live music on select days, and professional service. Located just 10 minutes North of the Old City by foot, it’s sure to satisfy your inner-foodie. Other popular options are the ‘Azzahara hotel’ restaurant and ‘Pasha’s’ restaurant, famous for their quality, traditional food at reasonable prices.
On the other hand, if you’re feeling in the mood for something more casual, head straight to the sellers surrounding the Damascus Gate of the Old City, who offer an endless supply of delicious grilled meats, vegetables, and falafel sandwiches that will keep you feeling full for days. Not only will this leave your wallet in good shape, it will also give you the opportunity to sit on the grand steps outside the gate and watch the city go by. If you’re lucky, you might even be able to find a vendor who will deliver a shisha pipe to your feet for you to end your whirlwind tour of Jerusalem with.
Afterwards, cleanse your palate with a fresh dessert from one of the many sweet shops that will catch your eye as you walk back to your hotel room for the evening. Each store teases the palate with their own twist on delicious delicacies such as kanafeh, baklava, hareeseh and malabi; some of the tastiest calories you will ever consume.

Jerusalem and beyond
Once your excitement for traveling in Palestine has been ignited in Jerusalem city itself, be sure to make the journey over the separation wall to visit the vibrant and fascinating towns and cities of the West Bank, which offer lush Arab history, unique culture, hospitable locals and a sense of astounding resilience to all who dare to visit.
Stay tuned for more on these steadfast cities in Part 2 of this West Bank, Palestine series.
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