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Henna has been culturally used by men and women for over 6,000 years to dye hair, nails and skin.
In ancient Egypt, Cleopatra and Nefertiti were known to have used it to color their hair and as decorative body art patterns. It was also commonly used for many centuries in India, the Middle East and Africa. Commercially packaged henna, intended for use as a cosmetic hair dye, is now available in many countries.
Henna is very much permanent, it does not wash out although it will gradually fade over time. “Many people prefer henna hair dye over chemical hair dye because of this, and because the dye works like a varnish over natural hair color rather than chemically changing the color inside the hair shaft, emerging roots are far subtler than chemical dyes,” said henna specialist Sanaa Naushad at Jamalok beauty salon in Abu Dhabi.
The henna dye or color is obtained from the leaves of a plant, which are dried, milled and sifted. A mildly acidic liquid like lemon juice, or strong tea needs to be added to activate the Lawsonia.
Natural hair contains two to three layers, but this depends on the genes of each individual. “The outer layer is the protective layer and it is called the cuticle and is composed of flat cells, which join like the layers on the top,” said dermatologist Dr. Sarah Abdulwahhab. “The cuticle protects a layer called the cortex in which the hair color is formed. Some people also have a layer in the center called the Medulla, however not much is known about this layer or its purpose.”
Chemical colors access the cuticle and enter the core of the hair to change its color. “This can cause the layer of protective cells on the cuticle to become dis-jointed, making it difficult for sebum to tour down and hydrate the ends of your hair,” said Abdulwahhab. “On the other hand, henna works on the cuticle and acts like a varnish and a further protective layer. Many hairdressers worry about henna because commercial options often contain metallic salts or chemical dyes, but pure henna is a nourishing treatment for the hair.”
There are many benefits of using henna for healthy hair but it might take a long time to see the results, and this drives many people to opt for chemical products for quicker results. “This creates a great dilemma for people because even though chemical hair dye is great for coloring, there is a possibility of skin problems, irritation and itching,” said Naushad. “Henna is not only used for hair coloring, it is also used to help prevent dandruff, scalp itching and acts as a great conditioner to hydrate the hair and helps it grow fast,” she added.
Henna coats the strings of hair with the Lawsonia, which is known to bond to protein, it makes the cuticles lie down flat and can result in smoother, shinier hair with less tangling. Once henna is applied to the hair, it will bind itself with the keratin that already exists in the hair and will coat the cuticle of the hair. “Every time we apply henna to our hair, another layer of color is added to the hair strands, which is what will result in the change of color or covering of grey hair that may be desired,” said Dr. Abdulwahhab. “Once the natural hair breaks the scalp, it is dead and it does not have any cell renewal activity which makes henna stay on the hair longer and never fade.”
Henna fades away when used for body art decorating, which gives rise to the misconception that the same would happen when it is used for dying or coloring hair. “There is no way to remove the color off the hair, you will either need to grow it or cut it. Some people apply dye over the hair but this is totally not recommended because both products — natural and chemical — are very strong,” said Dr. Abdulwahhab.
Natural henna gives rich red brown stains. In the market there are some retailers selling black henna or neutral henna, which is not considered henna. It is usually made from a mix of herbs and plants. “Neutral henna does not change the hair color, this shows that it is not henna at all, it is a powder from a plant known as Senna Italica also known as Cassia Obovata or a closely related Cassia species and is used for its medicinal properties without the coloring effect,” said Naushad. “Black henna powder colors the hair black and can stain the skin very quickly; it can cause severe allergic reactions and permanent scarring. This is why you should ensure to get your black henna from a reputable, trustworthy retailer,” she added.
Henna application can get too messy; it is easier when there is someone to help. It is better if you lay some plastic wraps or newspapers on the floor and tables before you start.
1) Mix the henna powder with hot water or green tea in a glass mixing bowl until the mixture resembles melted chocolate.
2) Apply a protective balm around the hairline (or beard-line) to ensure your skin is not tinted and wear some gloves.
3) You will be applying the henna to dry hair in order to allow the lovely color to saturate each strand, so give it a good brush, and, if needed, divide it into sections.
4) Apply the henna evenly to each section, working back to front, and starting with the roots before smoothing the color through to the ends. You may want to use a (new) paintbrush to apply.
5) Leave your henna on for around three hours for a rich color. And remember that cooler air will create darker tones, while wrapping your hair in a plastic wrap or a shower cap to keep the henna warm will encourage a red finish.
6) Rinse off your henna with shampoo. Enjoy your results and remember that your color will continue to develop over the next few days.
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